“It’s an irritating reality that many places and events defy description.  Angkor Wat and Machu Picchu, for instance, seem to demand silence, like a love affair you can never talk about.  For a while after, you fumble for words, trying vainly to assemble a private narrative, an explanation, a comfortable way to frame where you’ve been and what’s happened.  In the end, you’re just happy you were there — with your eyes open — and lived to see it.”

— Anthony Bourdain, The Nasty Bits

Peru is one of the most popular countries in South America with an extensive variety of stunning landscapes.  From desert on the west coast to jungle towards the east, and the colonial architecture throughout, Peru is perfect for anyone looking for the adventure of a lifetime!  There is so much more to this country than Machu Picchu, and we’re here to tell you all about it.

There’s a particular style that is very Peru which you don’t see anywhere else.  It’s got so many different imprints.  When you mix Incan minimalism with the heavy, ornate Spanish Baroque, it is very interesting, to say the least.

Peru’s weather is super diverse.  The Andes mountains have a cooler climate with dry winters and rainy summers.  The coastal climate is dry with very little rainfall.  The eastern lowlands have hot weather with rainfall distributed throughout the year.  And peak season for tourists is May through October during the dry months, also known as Peru’s winter.

We flew to Lima on a whim immediately upon finishing a quick, and super last-minute trip to Bolivia literally hours after starting Girl Versus Globe.  While on our trip to Bolivia, we met many other travelers that ventured to Peru previously, and highly recommended we do the same.  We flew back home to the United States, mainly because we had roundtrip tickets for our Bolivia trip, and no sooner than landing, we had our eyes set on the beautiful country of Peru.  As we always say, no plan, no problem.

Compared to back home in the United States, Peru is very inexpensive.  Not so much as our recent journey to Bolivia, but drastically enough that the USD goes a long way.  Overall, you should be looking to spend no more than 100 soles ($30) a day when you are in Peru, not including activities or treks of course.

Getting around Peru is quite easy, and the transit system is the most reliable and accessible we’ve found in our travels thus far.  Although some issues still exist with the safety on night buses, and with fake taxis, as long as you are aware of your surroundings, and follow the same safety advice you would at home, you’ll fall in love with Peru just like we did!

If you are planning on visiting Peru, use our travel guide to help you create the trip of a lifetime.

Transportation

There are several options in Peru for travel from point A to B. Unfortunately, there are no trains from Lima to Cusco, but for those with more of a relaxed time schedule, there is a bus or coach option.  Featuring an English-speaking guide as well as door-to-door service to and from your hostel, Peru Hop is well recommended amongst travelers.  Because we personally did not have unlimited time in Peru, we opted to take the more efficient route and flew Sky Airline from Lima to Cusco on day two of our trip.

If you happen to choose to use a taxi as your mode of transportation on your Peru travels, we highly recommend you have your hotel or hostel handle the booking for you.  Also, when leaving the airport, be sure to take an official taxi – booked at the booth and paid for prior to departure.

Personally, we prefer to take Uber while traveling anywhere and did so for anything short distance, multiple times throughout this trip.  We feel more comfortable and secure in an Uber versus a regular taxi, and it was surprisingly widely available in our ventures around Peru.

Travel Costs

Currency in Peru 2019 conversion: 1 Sol = $0.30 USD

Accommodations –  Hostel dorm rooms in the price range of about 20-50 PEN ($6-$15 USD) are common.  In this type of accommodation, you book and pay for a single bed and share the room with other travelers.  The bigger the room, the more beds there typically are, the cheaper the cost is per person.  Private rooms in a hostel that sleep two are about 70-150 PEN ($21-45 USD) per night.  For those who prefer more personalized service and a little added luxury, boutique-style hotels or bed and breakfasts will run about 270-405 PEN ($80-120 USD) per night.

Food –  The varieties and specialties of food across each region of Peru are immense.  Street vendors and markets are popular and economical, and really the best way to get a taste of authentic Peruvian fare.  Expect to pay at most about 5-10 PEN ($1.50-3 USD) for a nice taste of street food.  An inexpensive sit-down restaurant meal with local flavors will cost between 15-25 PEN ($4.50-7 USD).  If you’re interested in Western cuisine, you’re looking at about 35-50 PEN ($10-15 USD) for a meal in cities like Lima and Cusco.  Outside of the larger cities, a meal at a sit-down restaurant goes for a lower price of only about 10 PEN ($3 USD).  If you plan to shop for groceries and cook your meals, expect to pay about 150-200 PEN ($45-60 USD) per week.

Activities –  Trips and excursions such as Machu Picchu, Rainbow Mountain, Nazca Lines, and Lake Titicaca will be your biggest expense with all-inclusive day trips ranging anywhere from 170-675 PEN ($50-200 USD).  Multi-day trips such as the Inca Trail cost hundreds of USD per day!

Tipping –  In restaurants and bars, your bill will automatically include a 10% gratuity.  If you find the service exceptional, it is up to you to add extra.  Taxis do not expect tips, but hotel bellhops and porters should receive about  3-4 PEN ($1 USD) per bag.

What to Pack

With its hot coastal beaches, pleasant capital city, wet Amazon forest, and chilly Andean highlands, it can be pretty confusing and complicated to pack for Peru. Luckily, we just returned from our Bolivia journey, so we had a little practice planning for a trip with such dramatic climate varieties.

Here are a few items we recommend packing:

• Bug repellent – Typically, we are huge advocates of plant-based, natural, organic products, but the Mosquitos in South America are no joke.  We suggest a strong repellent containing either DEET or Permethrin.  Some experts even advise using 100% DEET concoctions!  Although we aren’t usually supporters of such high quantities of chemical toxins in products we put directly on our skin, we do believe it’s important to stay protected. Our go-to is Sawyer’s Ultra 30 Controlled Release Insect Repellent. We love everything about this product.  It’s non-greasy, has zero odor, is non-staining, lasts up to 11 hours, and comes in a super convenient carry-on approved sized container.
• Diamox – Prior to your trip, if you have the opportunity to do so, we would recommend visiting your general doctor and obtaining a script for Acetazolamide, more commonly known as Diamox.  Although not everyone experiences the symptoms of altitude sickness, it’s a great “just in case” item. There’s nothing worse than being exhausted, nauseous, and dizzy, with a throbbing head while trying to enjoy your vacation.
• Reef safe sunscreen – Thousands of tons of sunscreen pollute our oceans from swimmers, divers, and snorkelers annually.  Chemically filled options with ingredients like parabens, cinnamate, and benzophenone are not only harmful to humans but deadly to coral and our entire reef ecosystems. Considering this, it’s essential we are cognizant of what we are wearing on our skin when we enter our oceans.  Mineral and biodegradable sunscreens are both safe and effective, and therefore an all-around win-win!
• Insulated, reusable water bottle – We love The Brita Stainless Steel Premium Filtering Water Bottle. It’s double-walled, filters as you drink, and keeps water cold for 24 hours! We’re always in favor of using less plastic. Mother Nature thanks us for doing so. Which leads us to our next Peru travel necessity…
• Reusable straw and/or reusable multi-purpose bag
• SUNGLASSES – Because you just shouldn’t ever leave home without them.
• Athletic shoes or hiking boots – It’s really a matter of personal preference. If you are an avid hiker on a multi-day adventure, you might be more inclined to go with hiking boots.  If you are a newbie and day-tripping, trail runners or even regular athletic shoes should suffice.
• Thermal layers, performance shirts, hiking shorts, pants, or leggings – The majority of our time in Peru was spent outdoors in versatile, comfortable, athletic gear. Temperatures vary significantly throughout the day, so it’s important to have layered clothing options to adjust to the everchanging weather.
• Poncho or rain jacket –  Rain can come and go before you even realize it in Peru.  It’s nice to be prepared, especially if you’re on a day tour away from your hostel without a change of clothes. Rain jackets can double up as windbreakers.  But ponchos can cover your pack if it’s not waterproof.  We have a preference for the latter as they are easily transportable and generally can fold up smaller than a rain jacket and be thrown in your daypack quickly.

What to Eat

Peru has some of the best flavors and dishes not commonly found anywhere else in the world.  Their cuisine is a mix of hot and cold, acidic and starchy, robust and delicate. With a broad array of both local and international ingredients, Peruvian food is all about unique spices and big flavors.

Here are some of our favorites:

• Ceviche – You’ll easily become obsessed with Peru’s national dish, ceviche.  Though several other countries have their own variations, Peru began this cold, yet “cooked” fish craze, and did so with the simplest of ingredients:  sea bass/Corvina/trout marinated briefly in lime juice, coriander, onion, salt, and of course, aji or hot chiles.  For hands down the best ceviche we’ve ever had, check out A Mi Manera Restaurant in Cusco. You’ll be pleasantly pleased, and glad you did!
• Lomo Saltado – Fusing Chinese stir-fry with fresh Peruvian ingredients, Lomo Saltado is a combination of strips of beef with onions, tomatoes, yellow chili peppers, and a dash of soy sauce.  It’s served with rice and crisp French fries and is something you shouldn’t miss!
• Aji de Gallina – A Peruvian plate, considered comfort food, Aji de Gallina is a traditional creamy dish similar to chicken stew.  Made with ground walnuts, aji Amarillo peppers (yellow, and mildly spicy), shredded chicken, garlic, turmeric, cheese, and cream, it reflects Peruvians love of chilies, cream, and cheese.  I mean, really, who doesn’t love cheese?!
• Rocoto Relleno – Hot, delicious, and unique, Rocoto Relleno is the Peruvian rendition of stuffed peppers. A succulent chili pepper soufflé stuffed with vegetables and beef served au gratin with creamy Andean cheese and slices of potato is a truly heavenly experience for your taste buds.

What to Drink

Culinary speaking, Peru is one of the world’s leading destinations.  While the focus is typically on cuisine and gastronomy, there are a handful of characteristic Peruvian drinks for you to try during your visit.

Here are our two favorites:

• Pisco Sour – When talking about Peruvian beverages, the first that comes to mind is most likely Peru’s National Drink, the Pisco Sour. The drink’s name comes from pisco, the alcoholic cocktail’s base liquor, and Peru’s spirit of choice. The term sour is in reference to the sour citrus juice used in the drink’s creation. A pisco sour is a mixture of pisco, fresh lime juice, sugar syrup, egg white, angostura bitters, and of course lots of ice to shake the ingredients with. It is a strong drink, but invigorating and refreshing.
• Chicha Morada – Originating from the Andean regions of Peru, chicha Morada is a non-alcoholic beverage with a base made by boiling purple corn with pineapple, apple, cinnamon, cloves, and sugar. Maiz Morada (purple corn) is unique to Peru.  It is high in anthocyanins which act as antioxidants.  In addition, anthocyanins fight free radicals and offer anti-inflammatory, anti-viral, and anti-cancer benefits.  We found it deliciously sweet and refreshing with the cinnamon adding a nice spice to the tongue. 

Lima, Peru

Lima, the capital of Peru, known as the “City of Kings”, is an enormous town with over 11 million inhabitants. While a lot of travelers pass through Lima usually on their way to Cusco and Machu Picchu or on their way back, this city doesn’t get enough recognition on most Peru itineraries. When it comes to food and nightlife, it really can’t be topped.  As we briefly mentioned previously, Lima is one of the food and gastronomy capitals of the world, believe it or not.  We were shocked as well which is why we feel it deserves a second mention. Aside from some of the best restaurants in the world, there is a multitude of options for food tours and cooking classes for those interested in learning more about Peruvian cuisine. Although we weren’t able to follow suit, we definitely recommend exploring the city for at least a day or two before venturing elsewhere.

Whatever your particular interests are, Lima has so much to offer its visitors.  Here are some highlights, and your guide to exploring this underappreciated city.

Best Districts for Sights and Safety

If you’re trying to decide where to stay in Lima or which areas to explore, it helps to have an overview of the diverse neighborhoods. There are 43 districts in Lima but only a handful have a good balance of safety, attractions, restaurants, and bars, and are popular for tourists.  The five favored districts in Lima from north to south are Miraflores, Barranco, Central Lima, San Isidro, and Pueblo Libre.

Miraflores

Miraflores has long been the most popular district in Lima.  This upscale neighborhood is full of bars and cafes, fancy restaurants, familiar fast-food joints, and nightclubs that range from upscale, trendy, and chic to packed sweaty and sexy salsa clubs to low-cost backpacker water holes.  It’s safe during the day and reasonably secure at night, and the location is just about perfect.  It is south of downtown Lima with the Barranco district next door to the south, the and San Isidro district to the north.

Miraflores sits along the Pacific Ocean, and one of the major magnets to this area is the scenic coastal boardwalk known as El Malecón.  This walkway extends throughout the cliff tops and is a hotspot for paragliding, and jogging, or cycling.

Although not as beautiful architecturally speaking as other districts, Miraflores is home to several parks, and even a major pre-Incan archaeological site, Huaca Pucllana (these ruins light up the night after dark).  Many of Lima’s best restaurants and coffee shops are located in Miraflores.  It’s also a prime spot for shopping, with a mixture of tourist markets, shopping centers (most notably Larcomar), and a plethora of fancy clothing stores.

Miraflores Nightlife

• Atlantic City Casino has over 1,000 slot machines, 33 table games, and a karaoke bar. This is the largest and most elegant casino in Lima.
• Aura is one of the fanciest, most exclusive dance clubs in Lima. Although most regulars have memberships that are available via their webpage, tourists are usually welcome anytime. Music varies.
• Dolce Vita is an ideal place for those in their mid-twenties. With a wide range of music, a large dance floor, and two bars, this is an affordable choice for a night out.
• Nebula is one of the oldest, most respected discos in Lima. If you’re looking for 80’s dance music, this is the spot.
• Tequila Rock gloats two specific factors that have made this place one of the most popular ones. First, it is the only nightclub open every single night of the year. Second, the most beautiful girls in Lima are found here, either as part of the show or as customers. Expert Tip: Be aware; like in any other big city, some of them may qualify as hookers.
• ValeTodo DownTown is the most popular spot in Lima’s gay/lesbian scene. ValeTodo hosts the most spectacular drag-queen shows in the city. Be prepared to stay late. The best shows are usually scheduled well after midnight on weekends.

Where We Stayed

After an international flight from the United States, we were exhausted from our travels and could not wait for a hot shower and a warm, comfortable bed.  Lucky for us, we choose Calima Boutique Hotel for our stay in Lima.

In business since May of 2013, this boutique hotel is a beautiful historic property that has been revamped and remodeled with a stylish bohemian, yet modern interior.

Boasting a beautiful open terrace, a small bar/cafe area, as well as luxury in-room features such as premium bedding, a rainfall showerhead, and smart TV with satellite channels, Calima immediately dazzled us.  This business-friendly boutique provides free WiFi and a plethora of in-room plugs to charge all of your electronics.  They also offer complimentary breakfast which is a highlight you don’t want to miss (served from 7 AM to 10 AM).

Why Miraflores?

• Transportation is easily accessible.  There is an express bus for transportation to and from Jorge Chavez International Airport, and Lima’s bus system, the Metropolitano is located nearby.
• Walk the Malecon for stunning views as the sun sets over the Pacific Ocean.
• It is centrally situated between Barranco (walkable within 45 minutes) and San Isidro, plus easy access to the Centro Historico and a cheap Uber ride to Pueblo Libre.
• There are an endless amount of places to eat and drink on virtually any budget.  Maido, amaZ, and La Mar, are all excellent luxury options.  Some mid-range places to get a great meal at a good bargain are El Señorío de Sulco, Punto Azul, and Rincón Chamí. Eateries with economical menus and ticket prices as low as 10-15 PEN ($3-4 USD) such as La Lucha Sanguchería, Novo Bistro, Papacho’s, and El Jardín De Jazmín are abundant.
• Head over to Larcomar, Lima’s most scenic shopping mall, nestled into a hill overlooking the ocean. Here you’ll find restaurants, pubs, discos, gift shops, boutiques, a playground area for kids and a food court, and even a movie theater!
• If you’re a chocolate lover, make it a point to take a chocolate-making class at the ChocoMuseo on Berlin Street.

Barranco

Sitting just south of Miraflores, Barranco is Lima’s most unique and colorful Bohemian district.  This hip little neighborhood is trendy and eclectic filled with unusual boutiques, and fascinating street art and culture.  It has long been a center for art, artists, musicians, writers, and other like-minded, creative individuals.

Today, Barranco is full of weed-smoking hippies, and young backpackers alike.  The district’s bars attract local bands and acts from across South America and beyond so it is a great place to listen to live music.  You’ll come across magnificent ancient architecture, fancy restaurants, stunning art galleries, bustling bars, and some of the leading museums in Lima.  Don’t miss the residential areas where old colonial homes and 1900’s mansions dot the streets, some fabulously renovated, and others vacant and deteriorating.

A short walk from the main plaza is the wooden Puente de Los Suspiros, the Bridge of Sighs which at night looks like something straight out of Disneyland.  As one of the most romantic places in Lima, this site still attracts young lovers.  Also, relatively new to the Barranco district are two museums — the Museum of Contemporary Art and Museo Mario Testino (MATE) — which keep artists from all over Peru continuing to visit.

Barranco is a great district to hang your hat while in Lima, especially if you want something slightly less commercial than its neighbor, Miraflores.

Barranco Dining

• Tostaduria Bisetti – Located inside a colonial mansion, this family-owned cafe dates back to the 1950s. They hands down have the best Americano in town.
• La Bodega Verde – With the best atmosphere of any coffee shop in the area, this is a top spot for savoring Peruvian coffee while enjoying vegetarian-friendly food options.
• El Muelle – A great laid-back lunchtime local spot with delicious ceviche.  The portions are huge, the prices are fair, and there’s comfy outdoor seating as well.
• Isolina Taberna – Serving up family-style criollo dishes (rice, beans, and meat), this tavern-like spot is trendy, but also family-friendly.
• Canta Rana – This restaurant is worth the wait (usually about 20-30 minutes).  Owned by an Argentinean ex-football (soccer) athlete, the place is decorated with the owners’ treasures from when he was a player.  The food definitely matches his football skills and it also serves as a great introduction to Argentinian fare.
• Amoramar – Located in a republican house with a minimalist and contemporary patio, Amoramar provides top-notch food and service.  It is pricey compared to other options in Barranco, though not compared to North American standards.
• Central – Publicly acclaimed as one of the world’s best restaurants, this is a must-do for foodies with a larger budget.

Barranco Nightlife

• Santa Bar and Tapas – Attracts a young crowd and has great views and a dream garden terrace.  Santa Bar and Tapas typically features a live DJ with a variety of music genres.
• Picas – Well located directly on the road to the beach, this is one of the best places to go to have a drink and chat.  There’s a small dance floor and the music can get loud but there are outside tables as well.
• Ayahuasca – This gutted-out colonial mansion-turned bar offers enough rooms to get lost in.  With its vibrant, carnivalesque lighting and decor, Ayahuasca provides a truly one of a kind setting.  
• El Dragon de Barranco – After checking out Ayahuasca, head over to El Dragon.  Located in a traditional manor house, this is the most lively place to dance in Lima.  Cover:  10 PEN ($3 USD)

Why Barranco?

• Walk across the famous Puente de Los Suspiros.
• Hang out at Plaza Barranco and read a book, watch people dance, or just people-watch in general.
• Head down the Bajada de Baños which leads down to the beach in Barranco.
• Eat at some of Lima’s best restaurants with places like Central (one of the best in the world), Kjolle, Canta Rana (for ceviche), or LA 73.
• Wander the city streets to enjoy the colorful murals, small parks, and churches, shops, and galleries.
• Shopping.  Stop by Dédalo for artisan crafts and goods.  For unique, handmade shoes visit La Zapateria’s wide selection. If you’re looking for quality handmade furniture, Artesanos Don Busco has a variety of stone sculptures, textiles, and other crafts.

Central Lima

Lima’s Centro Historico, aka Lima Central is the historic downtown area of Lima.  The district is home to the official Historic Center of Lima, as recognized by UNESCO and designated a World Heritage Site. It’s a beautiful, colorful, lively place, and it is vital to include it on your Lima itinerary, no matter where you choose to stay.

The surrounding streets are full of colonial Casas and churches, including the Convent of San Francisco with its scattered burial grounds. Another bizarrely fun and also free attraction is The Museum of the Inquisition.  It features underground dungeons and torture chambers once used to punish accused nonbelievers.  Note:  The Museum of the Inquisition is currently closed for renovations until further notice.

Like most big cities, the historic downtown sadly doesn’t have the greatest reputation for safety.  Central Lima does border a few districts that aren’t the safest, and some streets and neighborhoods get sketchy at night. Just be certain to grab a map and stay within the high traffic reasonably well-policed areas, and you should be out of danger.

Overall, Central Lima is a great place to stay in the city for history buffs, architecture aficionados, and street photographers who don’t necessarily want the nightlife of Barranco or the trendy restaurants of Miraflores and San Isidro.

Why Central Lima?

• Relax, read a book, people watch, or just hang out in the Plaza de Armas.
• Go up the tower at Santo Domingo, one of Lima’s most historic religious sites.
• Grab a Pisco Sour at the Gran Hotel Bolivar.
• Walk along Jiron de la Union pedestrian street.
• Wander through Barrio Chino (Chinatown) and go to a Chifa (Peruvian and Chinese fusion).
• Check out El Parque de las Aguas (Park of the Waters) and enjoy the beautiful water fountains. Hours are Tuesday through Sunday from 3 PM to 10:30 PM.

San Isidro

Directly south of Centro Historico, is the San Isidro neighborhood.  San Isidro is the financial center and one of Lima’s most upscale neighborhoods.  It is not the place to visit for budget travelers as you won’t find much in the way of hostels or affordable hotels.  However, there are plenty of swank options if you’ve got a bigger budget.

San Isidro is the safest district in Lima. Whether you want to stay there or not probably depends on your budget and whether you prefer caviar to churros. If you decide to stay in San Isidro, you’ll be close to some of the city’s best restaurants, art galleries, and chic cafes.  

Cocktail bars and lounges provide plenty of fancy pisco beverages, pricey boutique clothing shops line the streets, and exclusive social clubs like the Real Club de Lima and the Phoenix Club offer spaces for the elite to mingle.  If you’ve got the cash to play at an exclusive golf course, Lima Golf Club is available for a round or two.

Why San Isidro?

• Visit the two archaeological sites and ruins, Huaca Huallamarca, and Huaca Santa Cruz.
• Explore the colonial-era olive trees at Parque El Olivar.
• Eat at Astrid y Gaston, not only one of the best restaurants in Lima but another one of the world’s best restaurants! Founder, Gaston Acurio also owns Malabar which is another excellent option.

Pueblo Libre

Southwest of Lima Central is the residential neighborhood of Pueblo Libre.  If San Isidro sounds a little too upscale but you still want to stay in a relaxed laidback district, then Pueblo Libre could be just the place.

The Pueblo Libre district has the most parks in Lima, and also a strong sense of history. The famous liberator Simón Bolívar lived in Pueblo Libre, and his colonial mansion on Plaza Bolivar is now home to the National Museum of Archaeology, Anthropology, and History of Peru. This district is also home to the famous Larco Museum, which contains one of the largest collections of pre-Columbian artifacts in Peru (including “pottery porn” representing every sex act you can possibly imagine). 

Pueblo Libre is more affordable than San Isidro however still has a fine selection of restaurants. The notable Taverna Quierolo, which opened back in 1880, is a great place for Pisco Sours.  Some of the best restaurants for traditional comida criollo (family-style dishes of rice, beans, and meat) are also located in Pueblo Libre.

Pueblo Libre is a sleepy district in comparison to fast-paced neighborhoods like Central Lima and Miraflores.  In our opinion, it’s better suited for long-term visitors rather than tourists stopping through for a short stay. It is somewhat isolated from most of the top Lima activities and doesn’t have the most options for hostels or hotels either. But if you’re looking to relax and take in the sights and sounds of a less touristy district, then you’ll be perfectly happy in Pueblo Libre.

Why Pueblo Libre?

• Visit the famous La Cruz del Viajero (The Cross of the Traveler), a cross placed by Franciscan monks in 1672.
• Stop by the Aliaga House for Peruvian art and artifacts.
• Hang out in Plaza Bolivar and enjoy its colonial beauty.
• Go to Taverna Quierolo for drinks and food.
• Eat some of Lima’s best criollo food in this district.

North of Lima

Although we did not venture north of Lima, we feel it’s important to at least touch base on the areas located in this region.

Máncora Beach

Máncora is a strip of sandy beaches several kilometers long on Peru’s northern Pacific coast about an hour’s drive from the equatorial line known for surfing and partying.  With its year-round sunshine, consistently great surf, and bathtub warm waters, Máncora draws a crowd no matter what the season.  Dozens of plush resorts line the shore, and most of the action is focused on the noisy main street, with plenty of delicious seafood restaurants and international flavors from which to choose.

Chachapoyas

This region lies in the Andean mountains and is home to the ancient Chachapoya civilization.  Today, you can visit Kuelap, the fortified city known as “The Machu Picchu of the North” full of innumerable archaeological ruins.  Be sure to also visit Gocta, a beautiful waterfall that is one of the highest in the world.

Trujillo

Head to Trujillo, the second oldest city in Peru.  While here, visit the archaeological site of Chan Chan, the world’s largest pre-Columbian city ever built in the Americas.  It was built by the Chimu civilization that lived before the Incas.  Another impressive Chimu site to check out in the Trujillo region is Huacas del Sol y de la Luna (Temples of the Sun and Moon).  Be sure to also visit Huanchaco, a small fishing and surfing town directly on the beach about 20 minutes up the road.

Huaraz

Huaraz is a hiker’s dream.  This destination is on the edge of the Sierra Blanca mountain range and is a haven for adventure-seekers.  The mountains here are stunning, and there are fantastic multi-day trek options for those looking for primarily outdoor activities.  If you have the chance to visit, be sure to check out the mountains and lakes of Huascaran National Park.

The Amazon

The Amazon Rainforest is not to be missed.  Stretching across much of Peru, you could visit the Amazon anywhere from Iquitos in the north (the largest city within the Peruvian rainforest), to Puerto Maldonado in the south.  Either way, you can arrange tours and stays in jungle lodges to spot wildlife and experience the biggest rainforest in the world.

South of Lima

Surf the Dunes of Huacachina

A popular stop on backpackers’ itineraries, Huacacina is a small town with street vendors, restaurants, bars, and hostels surrounding a lagoon lined with palm trees, directly in the middle of a valley of 300-foot mountainous sand dunes.  This desert oasis feels entirely isolated from the world however, there is a road to the west that connects Huacacina to the city of Ica by only a 10-minute drive.

Huacachina is very affordable for travelers looking to relax or who are low on funds.  The main activities of the area are dune buggy tours and sandboarding, and you can find great deals on both at most of the local hostels.  Sandboarding costs about 50 PEN ($15 USD) and you don’t have to book in advance.  Dune buggy tours go for about 40 PEN ($12 USD).  You can also rent a rowboat and float around the central palm tree-lined lagoon with a half-hour trip costing about 5 PEN ($1.50 USD) per person.  

Discover Nazca

Although relatively costly, taking a flight over the Nazca lines can be an extraordinary experience.  The Nazca Lines are a series of ancient geoglyphs that dominate the San José desert and Nasca Valley.  There are tens of thousands of bizarre markings of plant and animal figures, and their origins are still unknown. The best way to view the lines is by helicopter or plane tour which costs around 340 PEN ($102 USD).

Arequipa and Southern Peru

Arequipa is located on the “Ring of Fire” known for its high frequency of volcanic eruptions and earthquakes.  Nicknamed as the white city or ‘La Ciudad Blanca’, due to many of the buildings being constructed from a white volcanic stone called sillar, Arequipa is an impressive historical center, framed by three volcanos.

For incredible photographic opportunities, tour the Santa Catalina Monastery.  View and learn about Juanita, a frozen Inca mummy at the Museo Santuarios Andinos.  Take in the city’s architecture over a glass of wine in the main square.  Or go hiking, mountain biking, or camping at any of the three volcanos which surround this town.

If you’re into adventure and want to get your heart pumping, Arequipa is a popular kickoff point for the Colca Canyon trek.  Two other must-dos for adrenaline junkies are whitewater rafting down the Chili River (Rio Chili), or mountain biking down El Misti.

Puno and Lake Titicaca

Bordering Peru and Bolivia is the highest navigable lake in the world, Lake Titicaca.  This lake covers over 4,828 kilometers (3,000 miles) and sits at 3,810 meters (12,500 feet) above sea level.

On the Peruvian side, the town of Puno is tourist-friendly and used as a base for visiting Flotantes de Los Uros (the floating islands of Uros).  This group of manmade islands, forty-two to be exact, are actually made by the Uru people who live on them.  Aside from the floating islands, Lake Titicaca is just an all-around delightful place to unwind for a few days.

Cusco and Surrounding Regions

As the historical capital of the Inca Empire, the colonial city of Cusco is a major tourist destination frequently referred to as the gateway to Machu Picchu.  Cusco is a backpacker’s paradise but very full of tourists.  The area is popular with trail walkers, history lovers, and party-goers who come to enjoy the city’s beautiful ancient ruins, majestic mountains, a unique mix of cultures, and even the indigenous wildlife.  The sheer amount of things to do in Cusco is mind-blowing.  We could spend months in this town and never run out of amazement thanks to the diversity in both the activities and the scenery.

On top of having one-of-a-kind ruins, Cusco is also a great walkable city with markets, squares, and plenty of streets to explore.  Luckily, all the attractions in Cusco are not too far apart.  Most sites are only about twenty minutes from the city center and anything outside of the city is easily accessible by taxi. 

Regardless of why you choose to visit this ancient city, here are some recommendations for what to do, where to stay, where to eat, how to save money, and much more!

Altitude Sickness in Cusco

At 3,400 meters (11,200 feet) it is common for visitors to experience some symptoms of altitude sickness regardless of how fit and healthy they are.  Symptoms of altitude sickness include dizziness, lightheadedness, headaches, nausea, vomiting, diarrhea or constipation, difficulty breathing, or heart racing.

As mentioned previously, but important enough for a second mention, prior to your trip, if you have the opportunity to do so, we would recommend visiting your general doctor and obtaining a script for Acetazolamide, more commonly known as Diamox.  It’s a great “just in case” item.  Another proven remedy is coca leave tea which is widely available throughout all of Peru.

Best Time to Visit Cusco

While you can definitely visit Cusco any time of the year, certain seasons will offer different scenery, options, and weather.  Cusco has the clearest skies and most comfortable temperatures from May to September which is their winter.  Try to avoid June to August as these are the busiest months tourism-wise.  Ideally, the best time to visit Cusco would be April and May, or September and October.

Getting Around Cusco

• By foot – Most of Cusco is best navigated by foot, although because of the city’s elevation and steep hills, walking can be challenging.  
• By taxi or Uber – There are countless taxis available in Cusco.  And they are a great option as they all charge the same standard rates around town of 3-8 PEN per trip ($1 to $3 USD).

Top Five Best Cusco Restaurants

Cusco has an enormous variety of restaurants ranging from Italian to Japanese, to Peruvian. And if you’re looking for vegan options, fret no more, Cusco is vegan heaven! Here is our top five list for Cusco:

1. Magia – Encantada Casa Boutique Spa Hotel’s in-house restaurant was a highlight of our culinary experience in Cusco. Here we enjoyed perfectly crafted Pisco sours, mouthwatering garlic French fries, Tacoma Gran Blanco wine, and chicken and vegetable curry with rice. We also had the opportunity to savor their delicious breakfast. All of it was phenomenal.
2. A Mi Manera Restaurant – The food at this establishment is out of this world! We sampled creations such as ceviche de trucha, lomo saltado, and rocoto relleno on our visit. We also savored a pisco sour or two as well as a chicha morada. We were so impressed with this place, we ordered in one night and tasted pollo relleno as well as ravioles de camote. Both were also out of this world.
3. Yaku – When it comes to trying typical Peruvian and Cuscanian dishes this is the spot.  From lomo saltado, to chicharron, you can’t go wrong with any of the options on the menu.  If you’re feeling adventurous, try the alpaca burger for a nice flavorful surprise!
4. Rucula – Try the pizza. All dishes are homemade using the best fresh produce of the region and Rucula’s own vegetable garden.
5. Morena – Nestled in the heart of Cusco, this restaurant offers a trendy and delicious contemporary twist on Peruvian classics. And for a full meal costing 50 PEN ($15 USD) the price is nothing compared to what we pay in the states.

Cusco Street Food

This would not be a true complete Peru travel guide without mentioning my experience with Cusco’s street food. In my years of travel, I have fallen off a cliff in Mexico, got stung by a poisonous scorpion (within 24 hours of toppling off the cliff), got bit by a monkey in Bali, contracted a terrible all over body rash still unknown to this day what from in Honduras, gotten bronchitis, lost my voice too many times to count, and the list goes on and on.  Obviously, my travel troubles and injuries are immense, but I have never given eating street food a second thought until now.

While in Aguas Calientes, we enjoyed street-side breakfast vendors with warm artisan bread and delicious egg sandwiches.  In Cusco, we savored a tasty treat of street-side Churros.  In every country we have ventured to we have tried and loved the local street foods. Until I tried Cuy.

Cuy (roasted guinea pig), is one of Peru’s most famous dishes.  It comes either fried or roasted and is a Peruvian delicacy.  But I’m going to have to disagree with the opinions stating Cuy “tastes just like chicken”. Cuy is dark meat, it’s super lean with lots of small bones to pick through, and very little sustenance.  The closest thing I can come up with is that it tastes like rabbit.  Sort of.  

You see, thinking back and trying to describe the taste of it actually gives me the chills.  I’m about 110% positive out of all of my travel mishaps, Salmonella sticks out in my mind as my least pleasant travel experience.  And come on folks, I’ve literally fallen off of a cliff.  That says something.

Luckily, my experience with Cuy was towards the tail end of our time in Cusco.  So, needless to say, I did not have the opportunity to taste alpaca or llama on this trip. Although honestly, after my encounter with Cuy, I don’t know that I would have been down for the digestive tract Russian roulette so soon after, even if was feeling 100% again.

Therefore, I have zero advice on how to eat street food in Cusco without getting sick aside from, don’t.  Although I’m slightly joking with that statement, after my experience, I would definitely follow my advice and do a little bit of research instead of just eating anything, anywhere.

Best Cusco Hotels

Whether you are on a backpacking budget or looking for something a little more luxurious, Cusco offers a wide variety of types of accommodations to fit any traveler’s needs. Since we stayed in Cusco both before and after Machu Picchu, we ended up trying out three different spots.  And we were pleased with all three!

• Encantada Casa Boutique Spa Hotel – Located in the bohemian district of San Blas, far enough away from the bustling streets of the center, but still just a few blocks from Cusco’s main square, Encantada Casa Boutique Spa Hotel is where we chose for our first “home base” while in Cusco, Peru. Offering 18 oversized rooms, Encantada Casa Boutique overlooks the entire city of Cusco and has the most amazing views available from the fourth-floor terrace. Our room was a little more costly than your average hostel (420 PEN ($125 USD) per night, but we were looking for a different type of experience here, and it definitely exceeded our needs.
• Wild Rover Hostel Cusco – After returning to Cusco from our trek through Machu Picchu, we choose Wild Rover as our home away from home for our first and second night. We decided upon a private rooftop terrace suite for our stay here, and it was roomy and spacious at 150 PEN (about $45 USD) per night.  Although we didn’t love the climb up four flights of stairs while recovering from Machu Picchu, we were pleased with our room and the views were truly breathtaking. The in-house Irish bar served up a satisfying full menu and offered an insane party atmosphere that kept us entertained well into the night.
• Selina Plaza de Armas Cusco – The final few nights in Cusco, we stayed at Selina. Although this is not the typical party hostel we know and love, I would have to say this was one of my favorites. And the location couldn’t have been more perfect. We booked a standard twin private room 320 PEN ($95 USD) per night which was definitely expensive by our standards especially for a hostel, but by this point in the trip we had a ton of work to catch up on and Selina had the absolute best setup for this. The in-house restaurant served up a wide variety of drinks and some absolutely delectable food options as well.

Cusco Nightlife

The culture in Cusco has a tendency to live for the moment which makes it a great place to go out and party.  At night, Cusco comes alive with vibrant energy.  It doesn’t matter what day of the week you are interested in celebrating, from Monday to Sunday, there are an abundance of nighttime options, even in the low season.

Cusco nightlife scene revolves around the Plaza de Armas, which is surrounded by several bars, clubs, and restaurants.  Most of them remain open until the early hours of the morning, and we highly recommend getting wild, and dancing and drinking in a club at least one night.

Here is our list of places we recommend for drinking and dancing the night away either before or after trekking to Machu Picchu.

Cusco’s Top Five Nightclubs

• Mama Africa – If dancing is your forte, Mama Africa is your haven.  The most popular club in Cusco for both tourists and locals alike is located right on the Plaza de Armas and is open 7 days from 7 PM to 5 AM.  DJs cater to different crowds and tastes in music by playing a mixture of disco, salsa, samba, pop, and EDM.
• Ukukus – Close to the Plaza de Armas, in Calle Plateros 316, Ukukus is the oldest surviving as well as the busiest nightclub of Cusco.  Full of art lined walls decorated with surrealistic, eccentric, and mystical murals, admission is free, and live music sessions are impressive.
• Mushrooms – Located in the same building as Mama Africa, this is a trendy spot with electronic music.  This surrealistic environment is surrounded by electronic, funk, house or techno music every single day. 
• Changos – The intense energy in Changos is indisputably the perfect one. With its spontaneous vibe from live concerts with varied music such as rock, reggae or salsa to beer games in the middle of dancing, Changos surprises you every time.
• El Garabatos – The best club with the local crowd is easily Garabatos.  It’s a bit more upscale than most and has a stage and a large screen where videos play along with the music, which is predominately Latin salsa.  The dance floors are usually packed, and salsa lessons are frequently offered.

Cusco’s Top Five Bars

• Limbus Resto Bar – One of the most spectacular views in all of Cusco is seen from the balcony of this establishment.  Located in San Blas, the menu includes a variety of creative and innovative cocktails not to mention ample Peruvian and International food options.
• Nuevo Mundo – If you are a craft beer lover, Nuevo Mundo is the first bar specializing in 100% Peruvian craft beer.  Located in Plaza de Armas, the menu here offers an extensive range of high-quality foods and beers.
• Paddy’s – Paddy’s is without a doubt, definitely the highest Irish bar in Cusco. Some say it is the highest in the world, but we would have to disagree. (It’s Wild Rover in La Paz, Bolivia — been there). Although it doesn’t live up to its claim to be the highest Irish bar in the world, the bar is stocked full of enough ciders and local brews to keep anyone happy.
• La Chupiteria – A sanctuary for the alcohol connoisseur, this bar is a paradise for those who love to enjoy the night with shots!  Located at the top of the “Gringo Alley” and open from 6 PM to 3 AM, the drink options are endless.  Be sure to ask about their famous “Shotski”!
• Marcelo Batata – With a fabulous rooftop view over Cusco, and a daring array of cocktails, this spot with its rooftop deck make it a top outdoor venue in Cusco.  Their kitchen offers both traditional and innovative cuisine with their specialties being Criolla and Andean foods.

Cusco To See and Do

Plaza de Armas

The Plaza de Armas in Cusco, Peru is the center of town where you’ll find various restaurants and bars, locals selling massages for 20 soles, coffee shops, ATMs, street vendors selling photo ops with bedazzled alpacas, and in the evenings, dance groups and street acts. Featuring wide stone pathways and well-kept gardens, this plaza is home to two important buildings, the Cusco Cathedral, and the Church La Compañía de Jesús.

Museo Municipal

Located at the Town Hall close to Plaza de Armas is The Museum of Contemporary Arts. This is a small art museum that showcases the artwork of contemporary Andean artists. Mainly modern paintings, you’ll find a mixture of design from local artists and both domestic and international as well.

San Pedro Market

The San Pedro Market (Mercado Central de San Pedro) is truly a sight to see.  It is an enormous food market, one block long and three blocks wide with vendors packed inside, and it’s open seven days a week. Full of fruit, vegetable, and meat stands, as well as a multitude of fresh-squeezed juice stalls, the opportunities are endless.  For lunch, the market offers several empanada and tamale vendors.  And for those struggling with the high altitude, there are bags of coca leaves available for purchase as well.

Action Valley

About a ten to fifteen-minute ride from the center of Cusco in the Poroy district lies Action Valley, operating Latin America’s highest bungee at 125 meters (410 feet) as well as the Slingshot, a human catapult that launches you at unbelievable velocity.  It’s basically a Disneyland for the fearless.

Bungee jumping is on the bucket lists of most people who are adventurous thrill-seekers.  Personally, I think it’s more of an adrenaline rush than skydiving because you can see all of the “ant-like” people on the ground the entire time. But, according to other tourists, supposedly, unlike some other countries, the Action Valley circuit has extremely safe equipment.  

I had always wondered what it was like to take those last few steps off the edge to free fall under gravity’s force.  And I still wonder.  Because I literally had to be pushed off.  Seriously, ya’ll.

I knew obviously, there was no better time than “now” to jump off an insanely tall structure while connected (hopefully securely) to a large elastic cord.  Hey, I did mention Salmonella was the most awful travel experience I’ve had thus far.  At the time, I’m not sure I really would have minded if the elastic cord wasn’t secure.  (Joking!)

After signing your life away, you climb into a cage with your instructor and gear up into an ankle harness and a full-body harness as well, and you’re lifted 125 meters into the sky. And then you take the dive of your life.

Just you and your soul into the bright blue sky, you throw yourself into the air praying to whoever the harness doesn’t break. The next seven to eight seconds are completely indescribable. You feel scared, happy, cold, free, and this strange calm almost emptiness. Before long, the rope starts to stretch and pulls you back up. This is the perfect therapy for not only Salmonella apparently (joking again), but to relieve you of any tension or stress remaining from your everyday life.

Statue of Christ at Pukamuqu Mountain

About a half-hour walk from Plaza De Armas is the Statue of Christ.  The climb is steep and tiring but very rewarding.  Once you reach the summit of Pukamuqu Mountain you’ll undoubtedly see one of the best viewpoints in Cusco.  Expert Tip:  The best time to visit the Statue of Christ is early in the morning or late in the afternoon. Weather permitting, we promise you will get to witness an unforgettable sunrise or sunset!

Saqsayhuaman Ancient Ruins

Just a five-minute walk from the Statue of Christ are the ancient ruins of Saqsaywaman.  These ruins are considered to be the first of the ‘new seven wonders of the world’ and offer a great view over the entire valley.  The Incas called Saqsaywaman the House of the Sun and the Spaniards called it a fortress due to its zig-zag design.

San Blas District

Wander around in the San Blas District, an artisan neighborhood with cobblestone streets that are filled with beautiful architecture and small shops. Sip Peruvian coffee.  The best street for your taste test is Carmen Alto, where you’ll find several of the finest coffee shops, such as L’atelier Cafe Concept which has an amazing view of the entire neighborhood from the balcony. For yoga enthusiasts, head to the Healing House where you can practice yoga (classes are available throughout the entire day), participate in meditations, reiki, and sound healing ceremonies.  

Qenqo

This temple located about fifteen minutes from Cusco is a large complex thought to be used by the Incas for body embalming.  The name Qenko, from the Quechua word meaning zigzag, might have been given due to the network of underground passageways that make up the site.

Day Trips from Cusco

There is a multitude of day tours you can take from Cusco to visit more Inca ruins and other unique locations like the Maras salt lakes, or the famous Rainbow Mountain.  Based on our experience, we’ve put together our pick of the “must-do” day trips from the city to help you decide which is right for you!

Sacred Valley, Pisac, Ollantaytambo, and Chinchero

Our guide to Peru’s Sacred Valley, Pisac, Ollantaytambo, and Chinchero will show you the best things to do in this area just outside of Cusco.

Sacred Valley

With plenty of places to see, there are a multitude of travel agencies that offer tours of the Sacred Valley, stopping at significant ruins and colorful markets in colonial towns and isolated weaving villages. A few must-see places are Pisac, Ollantaytambo, and Chinchero. We suggest booking your tour with Culturas Peru.

Pisac

Pisac is a place of spiritually enlightened colonials, vast agricultural terraces, and steep mountain drops. You don’t want to miss Pisac’s colossal Inca ruins and ancient cemetery, where 3,000 Inca are said to be buried within the mountains’ crannies. There are several areas to explore the courtyards, tunnels, and spectacular architecture. If you are in a time crunch and only have one day to visit Sacred Valley, we highly recommend visiting Pisac and Chinchero.

Ollantaytambo

Located approximately two hours north of Cusco in the Sacred Valley, Ollantaytambo was once an Inca stronghold and military base protecting Machu Picchu. Today the ruins consist of a massive fortress and temple built among a series of large terraces. The temple’s walls were made with four huge stones each weighing 50 tons. Spanish invaders forced Manco Inca to escape to Vilcabamba, which is why the temple was left unfinished and the many rocks on the way to the quarry that were left behind are known as Piedras cansadas (tired stones). Here you’ll find one of the train stations to Machu Picchu, making it mostly a transfer town.

Chinchero

A beautiful village remarkably untouched by the so-called modern world, located 45 minutes outside of Cusco on the high plain, Pampa de Anta, perched at an altitude of 3,700 meters (about 12,140 feet) above sea level is the town of Chinchero. This picturesque town is filled with welcoming villagers who embrace their cultural identity and live their day-to-day lives continuing the Peruvian traditions that have been passed down from generation to generation. The women wear traditional Peruvian clothing with colorful details, red circular hats and sweaters, black skirts, and long braids down their backs. They also wear colorful hand-woven textiles that they wrapped around their chest and back to carry their products, and sometimes even their young children. The villagers remain attached to their native language, Quechua, but also are fluent in Spanish.

Chinchero holds some of the most captivating views overlooking the Sacred Valley of the Incas, with snow-capped mountain peaks on the horizon. Known to the Incas as the “birthplace of rainbows”, you’ll understand why throughout the rainy season (from November to March). During these months you can often see up to three of them simultaneously arched across mother earth (Pachamama) and a dramatic landscape of mountains, which villages consider as their protective lords (Apus). The colors of the rainbow can also be found throughout Chinchero textiles.

One of the most extraordinary traditions of Quechuan women is the art of weaving. While in Chinchero we stayed with a local professional weaver, Hilda Escalante Sallo, and shared an authentic experience learning about the ancient weaving process and their secret techniques. Her demonstration exhibited impressive skill and watching the step-by-step process was fascinating. This was the most authentic experience we shared while visiting Peru. What makes this experience so honorable is the enlightenment gained from learning about the villager’s lives, traditions, and values. It doesn’t matter what language we speak, the level of education, or part of the world we live in. We are all people with stories waiting to be told. You can be a part of a movement starting to form that empowers women, like Hilda, by visiting Chincherro and learning about their traditional hand weaving. This is WELL worth your time, if you have even the slightest interest in seeing genuine local crafts and time-honored traditional methods, then check out our full review on Culturas Peru including further details on this experience.

Chinchero holds a colorful Sunday market, where locals go about their business in their traditional clothing and sell their crafts. There is no entrance fee to the market which is held at the bottom of the hill by the main carpark.

Entrance cost to the main plaza and ruins is included in the Cusco Tourist Ticket, which costs 130 Peruvian Soles (about $39 USD). This ticket is valid for 10 days and gives you access to 10 sites and 4 museums in Cusco. You can purchase this ticket in Cusco, or at the government checkpoint at the bottom of the hill heading to the plaza. They also have 2-day tickets for sale, which cost 70 Peruvian Soles (about $21 USD) and are valid for entry to Pisac, Ollantaytambo, Chinchero, and Moray.

Chinchero is one of the most beautiful places in Sacred Valley. It combines colonial architecture, with Inca’s ruins and natural wonders. The colonial church at the plaza, Iglesia Colonial de Chinchero, is a jewel you don’t want to miss. This charming church constructed on the Inca foundation is believed to be the birthplace of Inca Tupac Yupanqui. Inside holds extraordinary works from native artists, religious paintings covering the ceilings and walls, magnificent treasures, and fresh flowers. Under the church, there is a massive stone wall and agricultural terraces. Under the terraces are huge pink rocks with interesting carvings in them, some with steps carved in them that lead to nowhere. It makes you wonder what their original meaning ever was. At the very bottom is a short Inca trail that leads to a delightful waterfall.

Maras and Moray

There are several options of day trips to visit Maras Salt Mines and the mysterious circular Inca ruins at Moray. The still-functional salt mining town of Maras is approximately an hour from Cusco and operates exactly as it did well over 500 years ago. A myriad of shallow pools are dug into the mountainside. Saltwater fills these pools, and eventually, the water evaporates and leaves behind salt. Locals then collect the salt and sell it in nearby markets.

While in the area, be sure to visit the ruins at Moray. Accessed through Maras village, these unique remains feature concentric terraces carved into the countryside in an amphitheater-like style. Though slightly off the beaten path, Moray is easy to reach by taxi 135 PEN or (about $40 USD).

Rainbow Mountain

About three hours from Cusco lies the infamous Rainbow Mountain.  Chances are you’ve seen photos of these vivid, bright-colored mountains on some form of social media.  Over the last few years, Rainbow Mountain has become an enormous tourist attraction.

This day trip starts insanely early, at about 3 AM, and the first part of it is a three-hour drive.  Next, a 1 to 2-hour trek at 5000+ meters (over 16,000 feet) brings you to yellow, orange, blue, and red mountain tops.  The hike is tough and you really should be sure to be acclimatized beforehand, but it is also one of the most beautiful hikes and not to be missed on your visit to Peru. There are day trips as well as multi-day hikes available from Cusco, usually starting around 135 PEN ($40 USD) per person.  Expert Tip:  Hire a taxi and go on your own!

Colca Canyon

Colca Canyon is the deepest canyon in the world and is thought to be twice as deep as the Grand Canyon at certain parts.  And unlike the Grand Canyon, Colca Canyon is habitable, and a perfect place to spot Andean condors. Although getting both up and down the canyon is intensely strenuous, the reward at the end is worth it.  From waterfalls to hot springs, Colca Canyon does not disappoint.

Humantay Lake

A 3-hour drive and a 2-hour hike will take you to the pristine blue body of water known as Humantay Lake.  Located at an altitude of 4,200 meters (about 13,800 feet), this lagoon is hidden from view from the ground below. Humantay is a snow-capped peak of 5835 meters (19,140 feet) above sea level and Lake Humantay is a lake that was once a glacier at the foot of the mountain. Be sure to dress in layers, and bring lunch, a camera, and water to fully enjoy the serenity and views.

Urubamba River

The Urubamba River is located at over 3,000 meters (10,000 feet) and flows parallel to the Sacred Valley of the Incas. With class three and four rapids, this river is best known for its great white water rafting options. Since the river is fullest generally between December and May, this is also when the rapids are most extreme. This is why upon inquiring about this experience, as first-time white water rafters, we were cautioned we might be better suited to try paddleboarding or kayaking and were invited on a trip to Lake Huaypo instead. Once we saw how violent this river was in certain areas, we couldn’t have been happier we were steered elsewhere.

Salkantay

If you want an alternative to the busy Inca Trail, try hiking the Salkantay. At only a fraction of the price of the Inca Trail, it has much fewer visitors and is therefore much less crowded, and it is just as wonderful! There aren’t as many ruins but there are epic mountain views and summits of up to 5,200 meters (17,000 feet)!

Cola De Mono – Santa Teresa District

Cola de Mono is located in the middle of the mountain jungle about 15 kilometers (10 miles) from Machu Picchu.  The main activity here is the zipline tour.  As the first zip line ever installed in Peru, and also the highest and longest in all of South America, this tour isn’t for the faint of heart.

The full tour takes about two hours from start to finish at Cola de Mono base camp. A short walk takes you to the beginning of the adventure which consists of seven cable sections with a total length of 2500 meters (8200 feet)!  Following cable number three, there is a Via Ferrata (vertical ladder rock climb) over 150 meters (about 500 feet) above the Rio Sacsara creek. The tour cost is about 170 PEN ($50 USD) and includes all the necessary equipment as well as a tour guide.

Machu Picchu

A trip to Peru wouldn’t be complete without a visit to Machu Picchu. This Inca ruin is Peru’s most popular attraction. To get to Machu Picchu, you can opt to hike the Inca Trail, choose the Salkantay Trek or the Inka Jungle Tour, take a rushed day trip from Cusco, or stay in one of the towns near Machu Picchu and walk or bus up to the ruins.

A Few Helpful Tips:

• Don’t forget your passport! Machu Picchu has it’s own fun stamp to add to your passport, in addition to your Peru stamp when you enter the country.
• Be sure to bring cash. Bottles of water, beverages in restaurants, and handmade items from markets are usually cash only.
• None of the bathrooms along the Inca Trail have toilet paper, so be sure to bring your own.

Hike the Inca Trail to Machu Picchu

Getting to Machu Picchu is best and most authentically achieved via the famed Inca Trail. This is the only trail that allows you to hike into Machu Picchu through the Sun Gate. All other hikes end in the town of Aguas Calientes. This four-day, forty-three-kilometer hike (26 miles) allows you to experience both mountains and jungles and follows the route the Incas once took. It is the “real deal” hike to Machu Picchu, and we are certain it is truly spectacular.  That being said, we are also sure it is incredibly challenging especially at the high altitude.

There are two ways to hike the Inca Trail: You can register and join an organized group tour, or you can hire your own private guide. You cannot hike the trail independently. There are only 500 Inca Trail permits issued daily (about 200 for travelers and 300 for porters and guides), and permits can sometimes sell out up to six months in advance at peak times. Tours start at around 2200 PEN (about $650 USD) and can cost in excess of 3300 PEN ($1000 USD) overall.

One or Two Day Trips from Cusco to Machu Picchu

The other option for getting to Machu Picchu is to either take a day trip from Cusco or a two-day trip from Cusco and stay in Aguas Calientes, the town closest to Machu Picchu. We choose to stay in Aguas Calientes and walk up to the ruins on our own time without any kind of tour.

Taking the Train

• Option A: From Poroy Station in Cusco to Aguas Calientes
• Option B: From Ollantaytambo to Aguas Calientes

There are two train companies that offer service to Aguas Calientes: Inca Rail, and PeruRail. We choose to take PeruRail which offers three levels of service: Expedition (formerly known as the backpacker train), Vistadome (enormous panoramic windows, more legroom, plus snack service), and Hiram Bingham (most luxury option with live music and dancing, a welcome cocktail, a gift travel bag, and small meal). We took the Vistadome train from Ollantaytambo to Aguas Calientes (about 1.5 hours direct) and bought round-trip tickets for about 610 PEN ($180 USD) each. In an effort to save a little bit, we took a combination of buses and taxis from Chinchero to Ollantaytambo instead of taking the train from Cusco.

Machu Picchu Entrance Tickets

The entrance ticket to Machu Picchu is 155 PEN ($46 USD). You can buy a ticket online, or at the tourism office in the main square in Aguas Calientes. The office is located by the Pachacutec Statue. Expert Tip: You need your passport to purchase tickets. You can also buy them through a tour guide or tour company if you choose to go that route.

Aguas Calientes to Machu Picchu

Once in Aguas Calientes, there are two options for getting to the historic Inca ruin. You can purchase a round-trip bus ticket 80 PEN ($24 USD), or you can walk up to the Machu Picchu site (about 1.5-2 hour hike – warning this is a pretty strenuous trek). The first buses begin at about 6 AM and the ride is a quick fifteen minutes. If you choose to walk, as we did, you can go at your leisure at any time of the day.

Aguas Calientes

Also known as Machu Picchu Pueblo, nearly everyone comes to Aguas Calientes for one specific reason:  to visit the Inca citadel of Machu Picchu.  Although Machu Picchu definitely takes precedence, and it’s not really a destination in its own right, Aguas Calientes is a special place.  There are few places in the world we can think of filled with as much excitement and anticipation as this town.  Despite the fact that everyone is there for one reason, and one reason only, there are still some other activities to partake in while visiting this town.

We arrived in Aguas Calientes by mid-afternoon and choose to stay overnight at Supertramp Hostel as we weren’t in any kind of rush and wanted to enjoy the experience the best we could. Spending the night in this town offers one distinct advantage and that is early access to Machu Picchu.

So what is there to do exactly?

Aguas Calientes is also known for its hot springs that can range from 100 to 105 degrees Fahrenheit. About a ten-minute walk up the mountain from the center of town is the hot springs facility. For just a couple of dollars, you can soak in the springs and relax and enjoy yourself with the beautiful Andes as a backdrop. The springs are by far the most popular in town activity.

Note about restaurants in Aguas Calientes:  Because everything has to be shipped in and because the demand is never-ending, prices for everything in Aguas Calientes will be the highest you’ll find anywhere during your trip around Peru.

Exploring Machu Picchu

For many, Machu Picchu isn’t simply a stop on a convoluted trip through the Americas – it is often the reason to board a plane to Peru in the first place.  Climbing to Machu Picchu citadel involves walking up countless, more than 3000 if we’re counting, staircases, and takes about 1.5 to 2 hours.  The most difficult part is staying patient, going slow, and pushing yourself to continue on.  It isn’t easy.  We’ll be the first to admit it.

The hiking route is well marked.  To begin, head out from Aguas Calientes, and follow the buses heading to Machu Picchu.  After about 20 minutes or so, you will see a bridge and a small restaurant/shop.  Here, guards will check your passport as well as your entrance ticket.  Once cleared, you’ll cross the bridge and take a right. Here you will find a road where the stone stairs to Machu Picchu begin.  Don’t worry about finding your way.  The path is labeled well and full of several other hikers. After about 1.5 to 2 hours of climbing, you’ll arrive at the gates. Allow at least two to three hours for exploring once you enter the ruins, and more time if you plan to hike Huayna Picchu or Machu Picchu Mountain.

For visitors to Machu Picchu, there are supposedly a lot of new rules for 2019 that we heard about before our arrival, but to be honest we didn’t really notice any that were strongly enforced.  Here are five we read about prior to our trip but did not experience while there:

1. You will not be able to enter the park without a tour guide.  We did not use a tour guide for any part of our Machu Picchu exploration.
2. There are three shifts of visiting hours as follows:
   • 6 AM to 9 AM
   • 9 AM to 12 PM
   • 12 PM to 2 PM
3. Morning tickets are from 6 AM to 9 AM and if you arrive with a morning ticket, you must leave by noon.  Not only did we purchase a 6 AM ticket and not arrive anywhere near 6 AM (oops, we set high expectations for us non-morning people), but we strolled around the park well after 12 PM with no issues.
4.  Re-entry to the monument is prohibited. Let’s just say, one of us got a little lost upon arrival probably in the dizziness of the hike, but no one seemed to mind entry and re-entry in our experiences.
5. Amongst the lengthy prohibited objects list, are high heels. I kid you not, on more than one occasion, I spotted women wearing them.

Expert Tip: Be sure to check for the specific day you want to go into the park because there are only a certain number of visitors allowed each day. You can check availability here.

We loved every bit of Peru and couldn’t pick a favorite part even if we tried.  Our Ultimate Peru Travel Guide was created to help you plan the trip of a lifetime through the deserts, rainforests, Incan ruins, and small villages of this beautiful country.  Peru will surely take your breath away, both literally and figuratively.

Let us help prepare you for your trip!

Planning a trip to Peru?  We’ve shared with you our best, most authentic travel tips for this beautiful country so you can enjoy your adventures beyond the tourist brochures.  Let us know if you’re preparing for a vacation to Peru and any questions you may have if we didn’t already cover them!

Been to Peru?  Did you love it as much as we did?  Drop us a comment below and let us know your secret tips and tricks for Peru! And as always, happy travels ya’ll! :)